The Distinctive Wines of the Rhône Valley
istock/darioracane
Once the land of Popes, the wines here are fit for a king.
The Rhône Valley - so inviting that the Popes tried to move here permanently during the 14th century. Sadly for the Popes, they eventually returned to Rome, although they continued to drink Rhône wines, boosting the region’s reputation. Fortunately for us, they left behind a region bursting with iconic wines, in what is now the second largest producing region in France, after Bordeaux. We will explore the great diversity of the Rhône Valley and surrounding areas, from the cooler North, with its steep terraced vineyards and modest output (about 5% of the Rhône total). We will also taste examples from the flatter and warmer Mediterranean south, that produces the vast majority of the wines. Red grapes dominate throughout, Syrah in the north and Grenache in the south. However, there are also delicious whites based on signature grapes such as Viognier, Rousanne and Grenache Blanc.
Chateau d’Aqueria Tavel Rose 2016
Tavel is distinct in the Rhône Valley. It is the only appellation that produces Rosés exclusively. These are deeply colored, age worthy wines that rely heavily on Grenache, with help from the wide variety of authorized grapes. Chateau d’Aqueria has existed since the 16th century and there is a beautiful Chateau building to prove it. The de Bez family, who have run the estate for the last hundred years, cherish the vines and the land that are planted around the Château. They blend the ancient and the modern, relying on a dedicated weather station to help select the perfect moment for harvest, which is conducted entirely by hand. Chateau d’Aqueria Rosé, a Tavel Standard bearer, is blended from seven classic Rhône red and white grapes: Grenache, Clairette, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Bourboulenc, and Picpoul. This full-flavored wine is remarkably versatile with food and will pair well with both light fare and meat dishes.
Chapoutier Belleruche Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2016
Michel Chapoutier occupies a place in the pantheon of Rhône winemakers. With a family history in the Rhône spanning two centuries, he has established himself as a premier winemaker not only in the Rhône Valley but around the world, including ventures as far away as Australia. The family motto, “Fac et Spera” (Do and Hope) is beautifully realized in this blend of white grapes that includes Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier, Clairette and Bourboulenc. The grapes receive special attention to minimize the exposure to oxygen in order to preserve the wine’s delicate aromatics. The Viognier grapes also rest on their skins prior to fermentation, an unusual step in white winemaking that increases the aromas and flavors.
Saint Cosme
Saint Cosme occupies land that has been dedicated to viticulture since Roman times. The Barruol family have been vintners at the Chateau for 14 generations. The wine cellar occupies a Roman cellar, and aging bottles rest beside ancient artifacts discovered in the soil. The Barrouls strive to create wines that reveal their unique terroir. The winemaking style is traditional, relying on a considerable amount of manual techniques. In the words of winemaker Louis Barruol, he is “working in the spirit of a vigneron using ancient methods... I would rather try and strike up a conversation with nature and, wherever possible, work with nature, rather than against it.”
Saint Cosme Condrieu 2015
Viognier - the grape that almost vanished! Vineyards for this deliciously aromatic grape had declined to a grand total of 15 acres in the 1960s. Fortunately, a few devoted growers persevered and managed to reverse the trend. Today, while still grown in minuscule quantities, there are 470 acres under cultivation. Vines grow on steep, terraced slopes, rising above the Rhone River in the tiny town of Condrieu that gives this wine its name.
The finicky Viognier grape thrives in the slightly cooler climate of the Northern Rhone Valley. St. Cosme preserves the intense aromas but also creates a deliciously smooth, full bodied and mature tasting wine by aging it in old oak barrels.
Saint Cosme Chateauneuf de Pape
Chateauneuf de Pape takes its name from the era when the Popes relocated to Avignon from Rome, but its wine reputation derives from the delicious blends that can contain up to 18 different varieties of both red and white grapes. This is the most important region in the Southern Rhône and was, in fact, the very first French wine region to receive official quality recognition as an Appellation d’Origine Controlée (AOC) in 1936.
Grapes grow in stony vineyards covered with large rounded stones, known as galets, that have washed down from the Alps. Chateauneuf de Pape boasts the largest area under planting in the Rhône. The appellation produces as much wine as the entire northern Rhône put together. Grenache dominates and accounts for 80% of plantings.
The Saint Cosme contains a classic blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre with a touch of Cinsault from the very ripe 2014 vintage.
Domaine de Durban Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 2014
Muscat de Beaumes de Venise is unusual among dessert wines. The winemaker’s primary goal is to preserve the delicate fruit aromas and flavors of Muscat, along with the natural sweetness of the ripe grapes. In most dessert wines, there might be the influence of oak aging, or perhaps the honeyed taste of botrytis that is found in Sauternes. That is not the case here, where the wine making techniques are aimed at preserving purity, letting the grapes speak for themselves. And, unlike many fortified dessert wines, this one is ready to drink when it is released and should be enjoyed within a short period of time after that. Like many estates in this area, Domain de Durban occupies land previously under vine during Roman times. The Leydier family of winemakers also grow the oldest known wine producing grape, Múscat Blanc à Petit Grains, family producing what many consider to be the very best wine of this type.